henry copeland:
In this month's New Yorker, Calvin Trillin visits Racery's official purveyor of BBQ... pllqt.it/uSWYPC

Allen and Son BBQ
Keith Allen chops his own wood and tends his own pit, positioning the coals so that their contact with drippings from the meat will produce precisely the smoky flavor he’s looking for. “I’m trying to get the taste,” he told us. “Everybody else is just trying to get done.”- www.newyorker.com